North Ossetia-Alania is one of the yet underestimated tourist pearls of the Caucasus. Our correspondent visited these parts together with Intourist, which sells package tours to the republic. We talk about the main points of attraction – what to see, what to try and what to bring.

In 2020-2022, against the background of the closure of many foreign destinations for Russians (first because of covid, then because of politics), a very bright increase in interest in the North Caucasus is visible in Russia.

Tour operators are developing both combined excursion tours with visits to several republics, and tours to individual regions of the Caucasus. Such tours provide the North Caucasian republics with repeated tourists: it is no secret that many who have visited the Caucasus on a short tour then return to spend more time here. And word of mouth from those who have returned attracts new tourists.

North Ossetia is waiting for its future tourism boom. Photo: ATOR

North Ossetia is no exception, where in 2022 several federal tour operators, including Intourist, put their excursion programs at once. We are sure that in 2022 the republic is just starting its journey into big tourism and will continue to pick up pace. But for now, let's talk about what a classic tourist will see.

WHERE WE GO AND WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT OSSETIA

North Ossetia-Alania is almost the most compact in terms of territory among the republics of the North Caucasus. Only neighboring Ingushetia is smaller. Therefore, 3-4 days will be enough to get acquainted with the most important sights (Intourist's package tours to Ossetia are built to see the most important).

But there are so many natural beauties and historical monuments in this territory that we would recommend a week to fully explore these places on your own.

Ossetia is not yet as popular as the one promoted in 2020-22. Dagestan. Therefore, there are places in the local hotels even in the high season. By the way, very beautiful modern high-level hotels have been built and are operating here in the mountains, although not yet very well known outside the republic – Foresta and Windrose in the Kurtatinsky Gorge, Skazka in the Tsey ski resort, etc. New ones are being built.< /p>

The Foresta 4* hotel at the entrance to the Kurtatinsky Gorge is one of the examples of new comfortable hotels in North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

Ossetia is the only republic in the North Caucasus with a Christian (Orthodox) majority of the population. Muslim Ossetians also live in the west of the region. In Vladikavkaz, you can see Orthodox churches, Sunni and Shiite mosques, a Catholic cathedral and a Protestant church.

By the way, the architecture of the local Orthodox churches is unlike Russian – rather, it is closer to Armenian or Georgian traditions, and the pointed and “faceted” outlines of churches and monasteries are very reminiscent of mountains with their peaks.

The Orthodox architecture of Ossetia does not resemble Russian, but rather Byzantine. Photo: ATOR

Mobile Internet in the republic catches perfectly, with the exception of a number of short sections of gorges. In any case, the reception is better than, for example, in the Kaluga region.

Even in summer, you should take clothes “with a margin”: in the mountains, the weather can change dramatically in just five to ten minutes – from cold and rain to heat and sun.

ATMs outside of Vladikavkaz are rare. It is worth taking a certain amount of cash on a trip.

WHAT WE WATCH IN OSSETIA: GORGONS, FORTRESSES, FAMILY TOWERS AND CITIES OF THE DEAD

Journey through Ossetia is a journey from Vladikavkaz through various mountain gorges. We were, of course, not all, but we saw some of those that are included in the excursion programs of Intourist.

Kurtatinskoe (aka Fiagdonskoe) gorge is one of the most beautiful in Ossetia. As a rule, his photographs are used as “visiting cards” of the republic in tourist booklets. And one of the most changeable weather. Rain and wind in exactly five minutes can be replaced by complete calm and gentle sun. Don't be scared.

Kurtatinsky Gorge, North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

At the entrance to the gorge along the road, there are excellent viewing platforms for “postcard” photos and selfies. There are many such sites along the way.

Views in the Kurtatinsky Gorge, North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

Not far from the entrance to the gorge is located Dzivgis rock fortress. The most interesting building, such can only be seen in the Caucasus – a fortress with loopholes, underground galleries and halls is hollowed out inside the rock and well camouflaged – from a distance it is barely noticeable or almost invisible.

Tourists can freely (and, by the way, completely free of charge) inspect only the main, lower floor of the fortress.

Dzivgis rock fortress, North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

View from the first floor of the Dzivgis fortress on the mountains. Photo: ATOR

The entrance to other rooms was along the now destroyed narrow paths carved into the rocks, or even along retractable hinged and rope ladders – each of these “intra-rock towers” was a separate center of defense. They can only be viewed from below.

The upper, inaccessible floors of the Dzivgis fortress merge with the mountains. Good disguise. Photo: ATOR

Unfortunately, there are not even grandmothers selling drinks with pies near the fortress itself, and this is surprising. Near the observation decks, locals trade, and in such a popular place with tourists, there is nothing at all but a sign.

Next, we will see the true tourist pearl of Ossetia – “city of the dead” near the village of Dargavs. That's why so many people come here. These “houses” that you have probably seen are not ancient dwellings. And medieval tombs-crypts, collective family graves.

Dargavs, North Ossetia. City of the dead. Photo: ATOR

The dead were brought into each crypt, which was the tomb of a large family (kind), in an open coffin in the shape of a wooden boat, and left there.

Dargavs, North Ossetia. City of the dead. Photo: ATOR

The tombs were built taking into account the wind rose: so that they were “ventilated” by mountain air flows through the left “windows”, and the bodies were subjected to fairly rapid natural mummification.

More details (and very interesting) about this will be told on an excursion to the National Museum of Ossetia in Vladikavkaz. His visit is also included in the program of tours of “Intourist” and other tour operators in Ossetia.

Dargavs, North Ossetia. City of the dead. Photo: ATOR

Dargavs is, of course, not the only place where you can find this kind of ancestral crypts – they are scattered everywhere in Ossetia, often single. Just in Dargavs – the largest and well-preserved (and very picturesquely located) burial ground of this kind. And you should definitely see it.

Tombs-crypts are scattered all over Ossetia. Here is one of them in the Kurtatinsky Gorge. Photo: ATOR

For tourists who would like to stay in the gorge, we recommend the Foresta 4* hotels (at the entrance to the gorge) and the Windrose 4* hotels in the village of Upper Fiagdon). The last of these has a good SPA-complex and a swimming pool.

Hotel “Rose of the Winds” in Upper Fiagdon. PHOTO: ATOR

Tourists are fed on excursions around the gorge in a large, modern, very beautiful and cozy restaurant complex in the mountains.

On tours in Ossetia, tourists also watch, depending on the program, the Karmadon, Alagir, Mamison gorges, as well as the very beautiful and most “authentic” Digorskoe in the west of the republic (it is also watched on combined tours with Kabardino-Balkaria and in large programs in the Northern Caucasus). Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to get into the Digorsky Gorge ourselves, neo is still ahead. But we looked at some others.

Mamison Gorge– the highest mountain in Ossetia, through it there is a road to South Ossetia and Georgia. Through it, go to the Tsey ski resort. And soon, in two years, a new, large and modern ski complex will be built in the Mamison Gorge.

Fog in the Mamison Gorge. Photo: ATOR

In autumn, the Mamison Gorge is very beautiful, but the beauty, unlike the Kurtatinsky, is rather harsh. Maybe, of course, the bad weather in the highlands played a role.

Yellow and green stripes of deciduous and coniferous forests descend along the slopes of the mountains. Mamison Gorge, North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

The area is wild. In the 90s, they say, the police didn’t even come here – dashing people were hiding here and it was dangerous. Now everything is calm and gradually cultivated – roads are being built, gas lines and electricity are being laid to the future ski resort.

Mamison Gorge, North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

It is interesting to visit the Mamison Gorge on the Zaramag reservoir. The views are stunning. Imagine how beautiful it is here on a sunny day.

Zaramag reservoir in the Mamison Gorge. Photo: ATOR

Even in the Mamison Gorge, in addition to semi-abandoned mining villages, there are interesting mountain sanctuaries, thermal springs. There are dozens of ovs with healing waters. In Soviet times, they were mastered, they tried to build sanatoriums, but the collapse of the USSR prevented – the health resort built gapes with black eye sockets that have never been glazed windows.

An abandoned sanatorium in the Mamison Gorge. Monument of the late USSR. Photo: ATOR

But the main thing is that the Mamison Gorge is rich in the ruins of medieval mountain villages with majestic family towers.

Ancestral towers of North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

Ossetian family towers are another hallmark of the republic. They are in all the gorges of the republic.

Ancestral towers of North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

At one time, the ancestors of the Ossetians, the Alans, were forced to go to the mountains from the flat part of Ossetia due to a number of aggressive campaigns of foreigners who swept across the country. Towers in mountain villages were built both residential and military (for defense and guard functions). Often both functions were combined.

Ancestral towers in North Ossetia are scattered throughout the republic. Photo: ATOR

Ancestral combat and residential towers in mountain villages performed not only protective functions, but were also a symbol of the family – in other words, the more noble and famous the family, the larger and higher the tower. They, as they say, were “measured”.

After joining Russia, a reverse outflow began – from the mountains to the plains. Many villages with family towers began to fall into decay or were abandoned even before the revolution. Together with temples.

An abandoned and destroyed temple in the Mamison Gorge. Photo: ATOR

The ruins of medieval family towers and mountain villages of that time can be seen in all the gorges of Ossetia – including Kurtatinsky, Alagirsky, Mamisonsky, etc. As a rule, convenient photo stops are made near them on excursions.

Watchtower in North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

Now some clusters of ancestral towers in medieval villages are beginning to be restored and put in order for tourists.

Unfortunately, there are difficulties in this, professionals of the tourist business in Ossetia admit. Due to unresolved issues of land use, ancient monuments are beginning to be built up or built around new private houses.

This, of course, spoils the views of such ancient places, destroys archaeological sites, interferes with convenient access to objects and does not contribute to tourism at all.

The residential building is actually located within the archaeological site. Photo: ATOR

Obviously, Ossetia needs its own analogue of the Dagestan village of Gamsutl – a completely abandoned mountain settlement, through which tourists could wander. They say that there are analogues in Ossetia – in the Digorsky Gorge, where we did not get. But, unfortunately, according to the locals, some residents are now returning there and erecting modern houses in the midst of the picturesque ruins …

Another Ossetian gorge visited by tourists on organized tours is Karmadonskoe (it is also Genaldonskoe). Once famous for its thermal springs, now it rather remains in the memory of a tourist as a place of death of people (including film director Sergei Bodrov Jr.) from the collapse of the huge Kolka glacier in 2002.

In the Karmadon Gorge. Photo: ATOR

A stream of ice, stones and mudflows – hundreds of millions of tons – revolving, as if in a giant concrete mixer, swept through the gorge at a speed of about 200 km/h. The mountains in these places are still as if peeled off by some incredible size “file” or cutter.

The mountains clearly show where the glacier swept through. Photo: ATOR

It is clear that there is literally nothing left of the people who were in the gorge at the time of the glacier's descent. The place of death of the film crew of Sergei Bodrov, which is visited by tourists, is also conjectural. No trace of her was ever found anywhere.

A monument at the site of the alleged death of the film crew of Sergei Bodrov Jr. Photo: ATOR

ART OBJECTS AND PLACES OF POWER

Beautiful photo stops on tours around Ossetia are always made near art objects. The republic is very proud of the ten national art objects of the authorship of the creative group Mah Kond. The ones we've seen are really impressive.

Between Fiagdon and Dargavs, one of them is located – the first letter of the Ossetian alphabet “æ” is huge and very beautiful for a photo against the backdrop of mountains. Nearby are swings. It's worth the swing, it's breathtaking and the photos are beautiful.

A monument to the first letter of the Ossetian alphabet, an art object in Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

On the way to the Kurtatinsky gorge – another art object: a “snow leopard” made of sheets of mirror metal. From afar, sometimes you won't understand that this is not a real cat.

Art object “Snow Leopard” in Ossetia. Look at the glare on the rocks. Photo: ATOR

The third art object that I managed to see with my own eyes is a beautiful cornucopia. A huge horn, indistinguishable from a real one, only enlarged hundreds of times, hangs on a rock near the village of Buron, on the road to the Alagir Gorge.

Cornucopia, an art object in Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

And finally, another impressive work of art that you will see on excursions in Ossetia is the overhanging road at the entrance to the Alagir Gorgea huge metal equestrian sculpture of Uastirdzhi, a revered deity in the traditional (pagan) religion of the Ossetians, usually identified with the Christian Saint George. They delivered it to the mountain by helicopter – there is no other way.

The equestrian figure of Uastirdzhi hangs over the track. North Ossetia, entrance to the Alagir Gorge. Photo: ATOR

The statue itself is located on the territory of the Uastirdzhi sanctuary. Yes, yes, pagan beliefs are alive here – on tours and excursions around Ossetia, you can be shown several sanctuaries, places of power, including sacred groves. Some of the sanctuaries are male (women are not allowed to enter), others are female (respectively, vice versa).

Of course, tours around Ossetia will also show interesting Christian monuments. For example, another interesting place to visit in the Kurtatin Gorge is the Alan Assumption Monastery.

The highest mountainous and southernmost monastery in Russia is located in North Ossetia. Photo: ATOR

This is the highest and southernmost monastery in Russia. It is interesting primarily for its architecture, although the buildings are new (the monastery was founded in 2004), and not ancient. And also the location – on all sides it is surrounded by mountains.

VLADIKAVKAZ: THE CHARM OF THE OLD SOUTH AND STREET FOOD

Vladikavkaz is the starting point of all tours in Ossetia (except for combined tours), and tourists mainly have dinner and spend the night there. But this city is definitely the place where you should stay for one or two full days on an independent trip.

The city center, which was founded by Empress Catherine the Great, is very cozy. It's worth walking around it. Many beautiful pre-revolutionary mansions, temples of almost all denominations – Orthodox, Catholic, Protestant church, Shiite and Sunni mosques, a synagogue – they all impress with their architecture.

The building of the Protestant church in Vladikavkaz is now a philharmonic society. Very interesting concerts are held here. Photo: ATOR

There are many places associated with writers, for example, with Bulgakov. The city has five theaters and a very interesting National Museum.

Center of Vladikavkaz. Photo: ATOR

The center of a cozy old southern town with ivy-covered balconies is nevertheless modern – modern cafes with huge LCD panels, very, very good restaurants.

Vladikavkaz is a calm and cozy southern city. PHOTO: ATOR

By the way, in Vladikavkaz, perhaps, one of the best street foods in Russia. There are many such establishments in the city center. Try local burgers, shawarma and other fast food – it is possible that pretentious Moscow burgers will seem to you completely uninteresting after that.

We advise you to look into cafes and restaurants in the center of Vladikavkaz – cozy and tasty. Photo: ATOR

WHAT TO TRY AND WHAT TO BRING FROM NORTH OSSETIA

Of course, real Ossetian pies. They will accompany you all the days of your tour: guides will tell you about them, you will be offered them for lunch and dinner – in hotels, restaurants and bars. Perhaps you personally will even get bored with them during the trip, but it will definitely be a good idea to bring them as a gift to your loved ones.

A stack of three traditional Ossetian pies in a restaurant in Vladikavkaz. Photo: ATOR

There are three classic pies in Ossetia – they are also served at the traditional feast, together, with a stack of three huge cakes: cheese on top, meat in the middle, with beet leaves and cheese – bottom.

This is a traditional ancient combination, the order of the pies is not accidental. The upper cheese pie in the meal of the ancient Alans and medieval Ossetians meant the “upper world” and the sun (that is why this pie is not at the wake, it is removed – the dead no longer see the sun). The average meat pie is our world, living people (flesh), and the beetroot pie is the “lower”, chthonic world.

Pies in special establishments will be baked in front of you, in a wood-burning oven. Photo: ATOR

Of course, in the restaurants of Vladikavkaz there are pies with other fillings (with pumpkin, cabbage, potatoes, cherries, etc.). But it's still better to take the classics home.

One of the best places to take pies home with you on the plane is called Three Pies in the city center. Next to it are several more of the same “pie” establishments, for example, the Farmer store. The cost is almost the same everywhere – 280-370 rubles. for one pie.

There are a lot of shops specializing in Ossetian pies in Vladikavkaz. Photo: ATOR

For the plane, the pies will be lined with cardboard, packed in a strong box and tied up for transportation. Aircraft with such a box (except Pobeda) are allowed, checked.

In such a box you can take hot pies directly to the airport. Do not remember, they will fly. Photo: ATOR

Brought pies are better to eat immediately, and reheat in the oven at a low temperature – in the microwave they will be a little “boiled”.

Together with pies, you should try it on the spot and bring local dark beer with you (draft is better). It is very weak, dense and tasty. You will not find anything like this or similar in central Russia.

Prices for Ossetian pies from a wood-fired oven in Vladikavkaz. Photo: ATOR

The second thing we recommend you definitely bring from Ossetia is cheese. Behind them you need to go to the central market of the city. There are a lot of cheeses here, but we’ll tell you: you shouldn’t take a lot of classic soft Ossetian cheese, unless, of course, you are going to immediately put it into the same pies at home. Firstly, it spoils rather quickly, and secondly, it is a rather simple simple product that can be bought both in Moscow and in other large cities.

But what you should definitely take with you from the Vladikavkaz market is aged Ossetian cheeses, they are easy to distinguish: those that are in a small and frequent “hole” on the cut. This is truly a gastronomic rarity – you simply will not find this in Moscow. They are called, as a rule, according to the place of production, they are slightly and strongly salted.

Aged Ossetian cheeses are a must buy in the Vladikavkaz market. Photo: ATOR

We can confidently recommend Dargavs and especially Fiagdon slightly salted aged cheeses. Thin perforated plastic of a sharp-smelling cheese on a slice of white bread with butter is ideal. Don't be afraid to take big chunks. This cheese can be cut and put in the freezer until “hour X”. The taste will remain the same.

Well, souvenirs. There are many of them. You can buy felted felt things of the author's work – but they are quite expensive. In the center of folk crafts in Vladikavkaz, you can choose original and rather elegant local silver jewelry. Handmade linen items are good – shirts, etc.